San Bol – Ghost town with a healing fountain

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I did not see the doctor, as that would have been an extra 6k with the backpack on Sunday leaving the town, as it seems we got to Burgos on a Saturday. For all of us time and the concept of weekdays lost all meaning. We just get up, walk, eat, sleep and do it all over again. But it does seem the rest of the world still operates that way, and pretty much everything closed at 2pm on Saturday, so shopping for shoes took a while. We finally found a mall and I got some 16€ sandals at Deichmann. So, not much time to go see a doc till hostel Curfew at 10pm.

I won a t-Shirt last nite after buying 3 pilgrims beers, after a really great dinner, with way too much, but really good food.

We had a great start into the day. Floris and I had breakfast then walked a few miles and broke into our own pace.

Leaving Burgos was so much nicer, then entering. All these nice statues along the way, walking through parks, and suddenly you get out and there is nothing.

The start of the Meseta. The Spanish desert. The colors change to yellow and brown, and it is harvested fields right to the horizon.

There was one last town to get brunch and water refilled. At the water fountain we met a Spanish girl with rasta hair washing herself in the water fountain. She and her friend had gone by bike to France for holiday, and we’re on their way home to her home village in Spain. They did not go the way of saint James, but passed many towns along that way on their own Camino back home.

Leaving that village I passed a couple of great graffiti. And after that I got my first real taste of the desert and the coming days.

In Hornillos I met Jake again, who blessed me with some of his wonderful “Hey Jaaaan” energy, and stayed for lunch and a few beers with Jake, Peter fron Denmark and other old and new faces. At 6pm I left and walked a few miles more, as I felt like camping out. So I got to San Bol. The place with a healing fountain, that if you put your feet into the water, you will definitely make it to Santiago.

The Albergue here, which is the only building had closed for good it seemed, so I decided to camp out here.

It was not quite as romantic as I thought. I was lying downhill and at first it was way to hot in the tent. My queso y pan dinner was interrupted by a million flies, and when the sun went down and I got into the tent, I took a long time to find a comfortable position.

At first it was still very warm, then it got really damp. At 2am I woke up and got a bit claustrophobic in the tent. When I got out I saw the most beautiful night sky, where you could almost see the Milky Way with the bare eye. At 4pm it got really cold.

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